7 Best Button Shanks For Professional Finishing
Discover the top 7 button shanks to elevate your sewing projects. This guide covers essential hardware choices for achieving a polished, professional finish.
Selecting the right button is often the final hurdle that separates a handmade garment from a truly professional piece. A well-chosen shank button provides the necessary clearance for thick fabrics, ensuring your plackets lie flat rather than puckering. Over two decades at the workbench, I have learned that the hardware you choose is just as vital as your choice of wool or alpaca. These seven selections represent the gold standard for finishing your hand-knits with both style and structural integrity.
La Mode Classic Plastic Shank: Best for Cardigans
When you are finishing a light-to-medium weight cardigan, you need a button that won’t weigh down the buttonband. La Mode plastic shanks are a staple because they offer a clean, unobtrusive profile that doesn’t compete with your stitch pattern.
These buttons are particularly effective for everyday knits where you want the focus to remain on your cable or lace work. Because they are lightweight, they won’t cause the buttonband to stretch or sag over time, which is a common issue with heavier metal buttons on delicate wools.
While some knitters prefer the "heft" of metal, plastic is often the safer choice for garments that will be machine-washed or frequently worn. They are gentle on the yarn fibers and won’t snag or pull at your stitches during the daily process of buttoning and unbuttoning.
Dill Buttons Resin Shank: Best for Color Matching
Finding a button that perfectly complements a hand-dyed variegated yarn can feel like an impossible task. Dill Buttons offer an extensive color palette in resin, making them the go-to choice when you need a precise match to your project’s dominant tone.
Resin provides a beautiful, subtle sheen that mimics high-end natural materials without the fragility of shell or stone. It is durable enough to hold up through years of wear, and the color saturation remains consistent even after multiple washings.
If you are working with a complex colorwork yoke, look for a resin button that pulls a secondary color from your palette. This creates a cohesive, intentional look that signals a high level of craftsmanship to anyone who inspects the garment.
JHB International Metal Shank: Best for Durability
For heavy-duty projects like a cabled wool coat or a thick, chunky-knit jacket, metal shanks are non-negotiable. JHB International produces metal shanks that can withstand the tension of heavy, dense stitches without bending or breaking.
These buttons are built for longevity, often outlasting the garment itself. They provide a sturdy anchor point that holds up under the weight of thick fabrics, preventing the "gapping" that can occur when a button is too light for the garment’s gauge.
Keep in mind that metal buttons can be cold to the touch and add significant weight to a garment. Always ensure your buttonband is reinforced with a ribbon or a strip of stabilizer on the back to prevent the heavy metal from tearing through your knitting.
ButtonMode Wooden Shank: Best for Natural Fibers
If you have poured hours into a sweater made of rustic, undyed sheep’s wool, a synthetic button will likely look out of place. Wooden shanks from ButtonMode offer an organic texture that pairs perfectly with natural fibers like wool, alpaca, or linen.
Wood provides a tactile, earthy finish that highlights the raw beauty of your handiwork. Because wood is porous, it ages gracefully, developing a slight patina that only improves the character of a well-loved sweater.
Be aware that wooden buttons may not be the best choice for garments that require frequent, vigorous washing. If you do use them, check for a smooth, sealed finish to ensure the wood won’t snag or fray the delicate fibers of your yarn.
Blumenthal Lansing Pearl Shank: Best for Elegance
Sometimes, a project calls for a touch of sophistication, especially when working with silk-blend yarns or fine-gauge lace. Blumenthal Lansing’s pearl-finish shanks provide a luminous, classic look that elevates a simple cardigan into a keepsake piece.
These buttons catch the light beautifully and add a sense of luxury to the collar or cuffs. They are ideal for heirloom baby sweaters or elegant evening wraps where the finishing details are meant to be a focal point.
While they look delicate, modern pearl-finish shanks are surprisingly robust. Just treat them with the same care you would use for your hand-knit lace—avoid harsh detergents and store the garment away from direct, prolonged sunlight to maintain that signature luster.
Trimits Decorative Shank: Best for Statement Looks
There are times when the button shouldn’t just be functional; it should be the star of the show. Trimits decorative shanks come in unique shapes and intricate designs that can turn a plain stockinette sweater into a conversation starter.
Use these as a "jewelry" element on a garment with a neutral color palette. A bold, decorative button can anchor a simple design, providing a professional, boutique-quality finish that makes your work look like it came from a high-end atelier.
Be mindful of the weight and shape of decorative buttons, as they can sometimes be bulky. If the button is heavy or irregularly shaped, make sure to secure it with a slightly longer shank to allow the fabric to move naturally around the hardware.
Hemline Basic Black Shank: Best for Daily Utility
Every knitter needs a stash of reliable, no-nonsense buttons for those "workhorse" projects. Hemline’s basic black shanks are the ultimate utility choice, offering a clean, minimalist aesthetic that works on almost any garment.
These are the buttons you reach for when you are knitting a gift for someone who prefers a low-maintenance, practical style. They are virtually indestructible and provide a sleek, professional finish that doesn’t distract from the texture of your knitting.
I recommend keeping a small assortment of these in your sewing kit at all times. When you finish a project late at night and just want to get it ready for wear, having a reliable, neutral option on hand saves you a trip to the store.
Why Shank Buttons Are Vital for Knitted Garments
A shank button is designed with a small loop on the back, which creates a gap between the button and the fabric. This gap is essential for knitting because it provides the "room" for the buttonband to sit comfortably underneath the button without being crushed.
If you were to use a flat button with holes on a thick knitted fabric, the button would sit directly against the wool, causing the buttonhole to stretch and the fabric to pucker. A shank button ensures the fabric remains smooth and the buttonhole retains its original shape.
Furthermore, shanks allow the button to move independently of the fabric. This reduces the stress on the yarn fibers around the buttonhole, significantly extending the life of your garment and preventing the dreaded "buttonhole sag."
How to Properly Attach Shanks to Prevent Sagging
The most common mistake I see is sewing a button on too tightly. You want to leave a small amount of "thread shank"—a tiny bridge of thread between the button and the fabric—to allow the buttonband to slide underneath.
- Use a strong thread: A polyester-core thread or a dedicated buttonhole twist is much stronger than standard cotton sewing thread.
- Create a bridge: Place a toothpick or a darning needle between the button and the fabric while sewing, then remove it and wrap the thread tightly around the stitches to create a secure, flexible shank.
- Reinforce the back: Always sew a small, flat "anchor" button on the inside of the garment to distribute the weight and prevent the thread from pulling through your knitting.
By creating this tiny space, you ensure that the button stays upright and the garment remains flat. It is a small, technical detail that makes a massive difference in the long-term wearability of your hand-knits.
Tips for Selecting Shank Size for Your Buttonhole
The size of the shank should be proportional to the thickness of your buttonband and the size of your buttonhole. A shank that is too short will cause the button to pull at the fabric, while one that is too long will cause the button to flop around.
Measure the thickness of your buttonband when it is slightly compressed. Your button shank should be at least as deep as that measurement to ensure the button sits flush without distorting the surrounding stitches.
If you are unsure, err on the side of a slightly longer shank. You can always wrap more thread around the base to shorten the gap, but you cannot easily fix a button that is sewn too close to the fabric.
Choosing the right shank button is an exercise in balancing form, function, and the specific needs of your chosen yarn. By paying attention to the weight of your material and the mechanics of the shank, you ensure that your hard work is preserved and honored. Take your time with these final details, as they are the hallmark of a truly professional knitter. Your finished garments will not only look beautiful but will also stand the test of time and wear.
