6 Best Button Shanks For Thick Knitwear To Try
Selecting the right shank buttons is vital for heavy knits. Explore our top six picks that ensure durability, style, and a secure fit for thick garments.
Choosing the right button for a chunky knit is often the final, make-or-break step in a project that took weeks to complete. A button without a sufficient shank will pull and distort your stitches, ruining the drape of your hard-earned fabric. These six selections provide the necessary clearance to ensure your garment stays functional and beautiful. Selecting the right hardware is just as important as choosing the perfect yarn weight or needle size.
La Mode Classic Metal Shank: Best Overall Choice
When you’ve spent hours on a complex cable pattern, you need a button that balances aesthetics with structural integrity. The La Mode Classic Metal Shank is a reliable workhorse that sits beautifully against both wool and synthetic blends.
Its primary strength lies in the uniform, high-quality finish that doesn’t snag delicate fibers. Because the shank is perfectly centered, the button remains stable even when the knit fabric experiences natural tension.
If you are working on a classic fisherman’s sweater or a heavy-gauge wool cardigan, this is your go-to. It provides a timeless look without distracting from the intricate stitch definition you’ve worked so hard to achieve.
Dill Buttons Wooden Toggle: Best for Cardigans
Wooden toggles offer a rustic, organic aesthetic that pairs perfectly with earthy, woolen yarns. The Dill Buttons Wooden Toggle is designed specifically to handle the bulk of thick, overlapping plackets found on heavy cardigans.
Unlike standard flat buttons, these toggles allow for a much quicker closure, which is ideal if you live in a climate where you are constantly layering. They sit high off the fabric, preventing the "bunching" effect that often occurs when toggle cords are too short for the thickness of the knit.
Keep in mind that wooden buttons require a bit more care during laundering. Always check if your yarn is machine washable, but consider hand-washing your garment to preserve the finish of the wood.
JHB International Brass Shank: Best for Durability
If you are knitting an heirloom piece meant to last for decades, brass is an excellent material choice. JHB International’s brass shanks offer a weight and presence that matches the heft of bulky, multi-ply yarns.
Brass is naturally resistant to the corrosion that can sometimes occur when metal interacts with the natural oils in wool. These buttons provide a secure, permanent anchor that won’t snap or lose its plating under the stress of daily wear.
While they are heavier than resin or plastic, they provide a grounding effect for oversized knits. They are perfect for heavy-duty outerwear that needs to endure wind, rain, and constant movement.
ButtonMode Resin Shank: Best for Heavy Woolens
Resin is a fantastic material for knitters who want the look of natural stone or horn without the weight or maintenance. ButtonMode resin shanks are incredibly durable and won’t crack under the pressure of a thick, tightly-knit placket.
These buttons are particularly useful for superwash wool projects, which can sometimes be heavier and more prone to stretching than traditional wool. The resin provides a smooth surface that won’t abrade the yarn fibers over time.
Because resin can be molded into various textures, you can find options that mimic expensive materials at a fraction of the cost. They are the most versatile choice for the modern maker who values both function and fashion.
Trimline Leather Shank: Best for Rustic Sweaters
Leather shanks add a sophisticated, tactile element to sweaters made from roving or thick, single-ply yarns. Trimline’s leather options are soft to the touch but structurally sound, providing a unique contrast to the texture of your knitting.
These buttons are ideal for garments that feature a lot of texture, such as bobbles or chunky moss stitch. The matte finish of the leather complements the natural matte finish of most wool fibers, creating a cohesive, professional look.
Be aware that leather can soften or change color slightly over time, which many knitters actually prefer as it adds character. Just ensure the shank is securely reinforced on the underside of the fabric to prevent the leather from pulling through the knit.
Blumenthal Lansing Shank: Best Budget Option
You don’t need to spend a fortune to find a button that performs well. Blumenthal Lansing offers a wide range of shank buttons that are consistent in quality and widely available for those working on multiple projects at once.
If you are knitting for children or creating items that will see heavy, daily use, these are a practical choice. They are lightweight, easy to sew on, and come in a variety of neutral colors that match almost any yarn palette.
Don’t let the lower price point fool you into thinking they are flimsy; they are perfectly capable of holding up a heavy placket. They are a reliable staple for your sewing kit when you need a functional solution without breaking the bank.
How to Measure Shank Depth for Thick Knitwear
The shank depth is the gap between the button and the fabric, and it is the most critical measurement for chunky knits. If the shank is too short, the button will compress your stitches, creating a puckered, distorted placket.
To measure correctly, stack the two layers of your finished placket together. The shank depth should be at least equal to the thickness of those two layers, plus a small amount of "breathing room" for the yarn to sit comfortably.
If you are unsure, it is always better to choose a button with a slightly longer shank. You can always wrap the thread more times around the shank to tighten the fit, but you cannot fix a shank that is too shallow.
Why Shank Buttons Prevent Fabric Distortion
Standard flat buttons with holes sewn directly through the fabric are the enemy of thick knitwear. They force the knit fabric to "bunch" around the button, which creates unsightly ripples and can eventually lead to holes in the fabric.
Shank buttons elevate the button above the surface of the knit, allowing the fabric to lay flat beneath it. This creates a clean, professional finish that looks like a high-end store-bought garment rather than a handmade project.
By using a shank, the button acts as a bridge. The tension of the buttoning process is transferred to the shank rather than directly onto the delicate, interlocking loops of your knitting.
Proper Sewing Techniques for Heavyweight Knits
When attaching a shank button to heavy knitwear, never sew it directly to the surface. Instead, use a "backing button" or a small scrap of sturdy ribbon on the inside of the garment to distribute the tension.
Use a heavy-duty polyester or waxed cotton thread for the attachment, as standard sewing thread will snap under the weight of a thick wool sweater. Wrap the thread around the shank several times before knotting it off to create a "thread shank" that adds extra clearance.
Always test your buttonhole size against the button before you finish the garment. A button that is too large for the hole will stretch the yarn and eventually cause the stitches to snap.
Troubleshooting Loose Buttons on Chunky Garments
If your buttons are sagging or pulling, it is usually because the thread has stretched or the garment has grown due to its own weight. This is common with heavy alpaca or oversized wool sweaters that tend to "grow" after blocking.
To fix this, don’t just tighten the existing thread. Instead, reinforce the attachment by sewing through the fabric and the shank multiple times, creating a figure-eight pattern that locks the button in place.
If the button is still loose, it might be that the shank is too short for the specific weight of the yarn you chose. In this case, your best bet is to replace the button with one that has a deeper shank or a wider base to spread the load.
Taking the time to select the right shank button is the final act of care for your knitted garment. By prioritizing shank depth and material durability, you ensure that your work remains as structured and beautiful as the day you cast off. Never underestimate the impact that a well-chosen button has on the longevity of your favorite sweater. Happy knitting, and may your plackets always lay perfectly flat.
